Badminton knowledge / Spec guide
How to read racket specs
Every number on a badminton racket means something for how it plays. Here's each one in plain language — no jargon, no marketing. Every “?” across the site links back here.
01
Weight (U)
The U number is the frame's weight band — smaller U means heavier: 3U (85–89g) is heaviest, then 4U, 5U, 6U (70–74g) the lightest.
Badminton frames are graded by weight in "U" classes. Confusingly, a smaller number is heavier: 3U ≈ 85–89g, 4U ≈ 80–84g, 5U ≈ 75–79g, 6U ≈ 70–74g. Heavier frames put more mass behind a smash but are slower to swing and more tiring in fast exchanges; lighter frames are quicker to react and defend with, but need cleaner timing to generate power.
02
Balance point
Distance from the handle to the frame's balance point in mm — higher number = more weight in the head = more power, slower swing.
Balance point is where the racket balances along its length, measured in millimetres from the butt cap. A higher number means weight sits further toward the head (head-heavy: more power, slower to swing). A lower number means weight sits toward the handle (head-light: faster, easier to defend and block with). We treat the measured balance point — not the printed label — as the source of truth, because the two occasionally disagree in the spec sheet.
03
Balance
Head-Heavy, Even, or Head-Light — a plain-language reading of where the weight sits. The measured balance point is the precise version.
The balance label summarises the balance point: Head-Heavy (power-oriented), Even Balance (all-round), or Head-Light (speed and defence). It's a quick read; for exact comparisons use the balance-point number in millimetres.
04
Shaft stiffness
How much the shaft flexes on contact — stiffer shafts reward fast, clean swings; softer shafts add repulsion and forgiveness.
The shaft is the thin tube between the handle and the head. A stiff shaft flexes little and returns energy fast, which suits players with quick, well-timed swings and gives a crisp, controlled feel. A softer (more flexible) shaft loads and springs back to add power for slower swings, and is more forgiving of imperfect timing, at the cost of a little control. We show the measured stiffness range as the primary number and the word (Soft…Stiff) as a label.
05
Shaft diameter
How thick the shaft is in mm — thinner shafts cut through the air faster; thicker shafts are more stable on hard hits.
Shaft diameter, in millimetres, trades air resistance against stability. A thinner shaft (around 6.2–6.6mm) slices through the air for faster swings and quick flat exchanges. A thicker shaft (around 6.8–7.0mm) is more stable and planted on powerful smashes and off-centre hits.
06
Grommet holes
How many string holes the frame has — more holes can mean a denser, more controlled string bed; the pattern also affects feel.
The number and layout of grommet holes in the frame shape the string bed. More holes and slanted patterns can support a denser, more controlled bed and a larger sweet spot, while the exact feel depends on how the frame and stringing interact. Treat it as a construction detail, not a headline spec.
07
Frame area
The area of the string face in cm² — a larger face is more forgiving on off-centre hits; a smaller face can feel more precise.
Frame (string-face) area, in square centimetres, roughly tracks the size of the hitting surface. A larger area is more forgiving of mishits with a bigger sweet spot; a smaller, more compact head can feel more precise and cut through the air a touch faster. Some models in this lineup don't publish this figure, in which case we show a dash.
08
Grip size
How thick the handle is — G6 is smaller (thinner), G5 is larger (thicker). Grip your natural finger wrap prefers.
Grip size describes the handle thickness. In this lineup G6 is the smaller (thinner) handle and G5 is the larger (thicker) one. A grip that's too small encourages over-gripping; too large limits wrist snap. You can always build a thinner grip up with an overgrip, so many players size down when unsure.
09
Max tension
The highest safe stringing tension for the frame in lbs — a ceiling, NOT a recommended tension. String below it for durability.
Max tension is the manufacturer's ceiling for how tightly the frame can be strung, in pounds. It is a safety limit, not a suggestion — stringing at the maximum every time shortens frame life and demands very clean contact. Higher tension gives a flatter, more controlled response for advanced players; lower tension adds repulsion and forgiveness. Pick a tension your technique supports, comfortably under this number.
10
Swing weight
How heavy the racket feels while swinging (not its static weight) — higher swing weight hits harder but is more tiring and slower.
Swing weight measures how heavy the racket feels in motion, accounting for how its mass is distributed, not just the number on the scale. A higher swing weight carries more momentum into the shuttle for heavier smashes, but is slower to manoeuvre and more tiring over a long match. Some models in this lineup don't publish a swing weight, shown here as a dash.
11
Classification
OGKILS's play-style grade for the frame: ATTACK (power), SPEED (fast/flat), CONTROL (placement), or ALL-AROUND (balanced).
Classification is OGKILS's own summary of what a frame is built for. ATTACK frames are head-heavy and reward smashing. SPEED frames favour fast, flat exchanges and quick defence. CONTROL frames prioritise placement and a steady feel. ALL-AROUND frames sit in the middle and adapt to most situations — a safe default if you're unsure.